Walk with the World!

Kathy Villemure, a local retired health care chaplain, is planning to walk the Camino de Santiago de Compostela – a nearly 500-mile pilgrimage across Spain - in May and June. She has decided to set up a fundraiser for Refugee Connections Spokane and their work to lift up refugees and immigrants in this community. Kathy says, "The idea  to make this pilgrimage is Divinely inspired. When I first heard about the Camino a few years ago, I thought people who considered it were nuts! But I keep getting nudges and God-winks. I know this pilgrimage is for my soul and for my own transformation. I have the feeling it will change my life." 
 
Although I really know very little about the plight of refugees, it's been on my mind for some time that it's totally unfair that a person like me - a privileged American with means and time and freedom and with quality shoes and backpack - can fly to Spain to walk the Camino while others are fleeing for their lives with little or nothing. I'd like to walk in solidarity with them somehow - what's it like to walk 500 miles!? 
 
I wondered if my walking could also benefit refugees in some way. Is there a way people could pledge so much a mile or kilometer that I walk, or for the entire pilgrimage, to a local non-profit for refugee assistance? A penny a mile would be $5.00 - that is...if I could actually walk 500 miles! So, i contacted Refugee Connections Spokane and they got the ball rolling.
 
This is not a political idea - I know the plight of refugees is very controversial and very complex. But it's a humanitarian idea - to support people who have come with the clothes on their backs, and to support those who work with them. 
Camino Update 5/6/2019.

​Hi friends and related ones!

We did about 12 miles today. It’s absolutely beautiful here. People are friendly and welcoming and very patient with our limited Spanish. We arrived today in Estrella at about 2:30. Checked into a “municipal albergue” - I lost track of how many beds in our room but I think it’s 28 - with 2 bathrooms (toilets and sinks) and only one working shower! But we manages to both get showers and do our laundry. We find that our standards are becoming lower - we look like everyone else without hair dryers and wearing the same clothes each day. We are grateful to have what we do - a bed and running water and access to food. The difference we find between tourists and pilgrims is that pilgrims are grateful and tourists often have higher expectations and can be demanding and rude. 

We are feeling our age with sore parts everywhere! But so far no blisters! Yay! We are definitely tired at the end of the day. 

We are grateful for your prayers and will try to send more interesting posts. But so tired at the end of the day. 
Much love,
Kathy and Dave 
Camino Update 5/9/2019

Hi friends.

​Day 9 - up at 5:30 and went back to sleep until 7 - way too windy!! Had a side-wind and headwinds the whole way today so only did 8.5 miles today. Lots of uphills and downhills. I kept saying: “onward and upward and downward but always UPRIGHT!”
We are in Viana just a bit short of Logrono. In a Pension - private room and bath. Yay!
I’ve added some new names here. If you don’t want to be on the list let me know. I may try to catch you up but no promises. 
Molly it’s fine for the “chix” to forward my messages if they want. Thanks for your sensitivity to our privacy.
That’s something we’re learning on the Camino. There really isn’t any privacy in the albergues. The sisters taught me the meaning of “custody of the eyes” and we have a fine opportunity to practice here. 

It’s really beautiful here. Wildflowers everywhere. Wheat and barley in the wind look like ocean waves. So gentle and lovely. Poppies and wild roses are everywhere. And butterflies. And seems like a sacrament as we walk past wheat fields and vineyards and olive groves all planted near each other. I feel anointed just walking through this moving picture-postcard!

Forgot to tell you a pilgrim passed us yesterday and asked where we were from.  USA...Washington State - over in the Pacific Northwest. Yes, but what city? Spokane. Oh, he says, I’m from Liberty Lake! And on he goes. Everyone passes us. We are slow. There are a couple folks we seem to leapfrog with. It’s fun to see familiar faces. 
Saw a Facebook post from Marijke asking another pilgrim if she’s seen us. And Dave and I are certain she’s the one we shared a table with a couple days ago - Kristi from Oakland!
Always with the God-winks! 😉 
Much peace to you all!
Kathy and Dave
​Day 10 - word for the day - vulnerability. Saw our first snail carrying her shell on the way to Santiago. Then saw a bunch of very small ones and it was so hard to avoid stepping on them. They are vulnerable. I think I'm called to be vulnerable, too, but I don't like it much. The snail teaches me patience and teaches me not to try to be what I'm not...fast. 


Finding clues to the path can be challenging at times. Look for the yellow arrows or the shells - but they can be on trees or walls or on the streets. And sometimes we go for awhile and hope we're on the right track. It reminds me of that commercial in Spokane where kids in a car are calling out "pink plate!" when they spot a certain license plate. It's almost like a game. Who can spot the next arrow. It can be frustrating to get off trail because it means more walking to backtrack. 

My other word for the day is "gratitude" because I feel it all the time. But today I was touched by a local Spanish man who noticed us gawking on a street corner. We were in the middle of downtown Logrono- a city of 155,000! We couldn't spot an arrow or a sign or a shell and were feeling perplexed. And I'm sure it was obvious! So this sweet man across a very wide busy street started waving and calling to us to cross the street towards him. He even waited for us as we had to wait for the crossing light. Then he patiently showed us the way. What immense kindness. 

Ran into Carla from Brazil - we had met her on day one- she shared a cab from Pamplona with us and another couple to start the Camino - us in Roncesvalles and the others starting in France. Fun to see Carla after ten days. Sharing our room tonight with people from Holland and from Germany. Had dinner with a mother and daughter from Australia. It reminds me of another childhood travel game. Counting license plates from various states. Now we're realizing how many countries are represented on this Camino!

Today we left Viana at about 6:30 and walked till about 1:30. It was a pretty nice path. Not so many ups and downs. We walked 14.5 miles today. We are in an albergue in Navarette. Had our showers, did our laundry in the sink and visited a beautiful cathedral. Just finished our pilgrim meal and are so ready for bed. 
Much love to you all!
Dave and Kathy 
​May 14 – day 14
We haven't had WiFi for a couple days and last night we were in a place without WiFi or cell coverage. So I've just been journaling in Word. Frankly I haven't felt like sharing a lot. More interior now. 

Sunday (5/12) almost did me in. Left Azofra at 7:30 and arrived at Santo Domingo about 12:30. Only about 10 miles but it was brutal.  I ached from the waist down. Lower back, butt, thighs, calves, shins, ankles, and the bottom of my feet. No energy at all after shower and laundry.  Wish I had had more. HUGE celebration in Santo Domingo. It couldn't have been St Dominic feast day but it was the 1000th anniversary of the town. The church bells rang and rang for a good 10-15 minutes as we arrived. And then again an hour later. Once we had showered and done our laundry we ventured down the way and there were 100s of locals dressed to the 9s celebrating.  So sorry we missed it.  Then at just before midnight we were awakened by a spectacular fireworks display! Must have been a very special day.  Someone said there had been a big procession through the streets with priests and even a cardinal. Must have been before we arrived. 

Monday (5/13) was easier for me for some reason. Sunday I almost doubted being able to continue.  But I had more energy and no pain.  We left Santo Domingo at 6:15. We stopped for breakfast in Granon and met a couple from Chicago - AND Beth Coyle from Spokane Valley! Small world! 

We went through a tiny village (Viloria de la Rioja – population 70) that was the birthplace of St Dominic and we saw the baptismal font in which he was baptized. It was outside under a tree and almost looked like a bird bath. I should have taken a picture.  

We stopped at a tiny village with only one albergue. We walked 12.8 miles. We did a little backtracking due to not finding another albergue. Villamayor del Rio – population 50. Delightful place.  Sat in the back yard after showering and washing clothes. The yard and garden are beautiful. Both flowers and vegetable garden as well as fruit and lilac trees. Warm sun and nice breeze to quickly dry our clothes. Jean, I think of you in your flower garden, and Mary Lee I think of you planting your vegetable garden. I listened to a short book called "Walking: one step at a time" by a Norwegian – Erling Kaage - thought of Gary. Great little book and listening helped me continue putting one foot in front of another. 

We met 2 Lindas who shared our room. Age 67 and 70. They are sisters in law – married to two bothers. Both originally from Indianapolis. One still lives there – trained for Camino at what used to be Ft Ben Harrison (where I lived shortly after my first marriage). She is retired from corrections work – was a warden in a juvenile facility.  The other Linda is a retired federal judge living in DC. Fun and wonderful women. 

Today is our 14th day – May 14.  We slept well and got up and left by 6:15. It was really cold – saw frost on some of the plants. Walked 11.8 miles today and ended up in Villafranca Montes de Oca at noon. Got a private room with a private bath! Yay! Ended up with too much sun on my arms but it doesn't hurt. Dave says its time for dinner so off we go! Met up with the 2 Lindas for the pilgrim dinner tonight. They are meeting their husbands tomorrow in Burgos for a few days before continuing on to Santiago. We're getting packed up to be ready first thing in the morning. A long uphill tomorrow. 

I think of how well we are treated and we are so welcomed everywhere.  We are strangers in a strange land with strange languages spoken all around us.  But everyone is so kind to one another. Why can't it be this way everywhere? We walked by several fields of peas today and yesterday. "Peas on earth,"  we said. And it seems true here. 
Much peace to you!
Kathy and Dave
May 17 - Day 17 - Friday
Again spotty cell and WiFi service.  
We left Villafranca on Day 15 - 5/15 at 6:10 am - dark! Used our headlamps for the first time as we were going through a forested area - and uphill for quite a while and VERY ROCKY. Once uphill there were spectacular views! A sunny day. Ended up in Atapuerca at noon after 12.5 miles.  The albergue didn't open till 1:00 and nothing else was open, so we sat on the ground with many other pilgrims waiting for them to open. One young woman arrived while we were all waiting and began crying as soon as I greeted her and offered her a rock to sit on and some water.  She had been sick to her stomach all morning and couldn't keep anything down. Refused water for fear she would vomit again. We were able to speak to the owner of the albergue and try to get her some medical attention. She was finally helped to a private hostel, I think, or maybe able to take a cab to the doctor in Burgos. I didn't see her again.

I have a history of migraine headaches with accompanying nausea, and I cannot even imagine what that would be like on a walk like this. That poor woman. And then I think of refugees walking so far without medical assistance or food or water or a bed. I don't know how they survive.  

Atapuerca is an historic site where the oldest European remains were ever found in nearby caves - I think in the late 90's. The archeological dig is ongoing and they've found human activity as far back as 1.5 million years! We didn't visit the site as it was another mile or two out of the way and we were very tired by the time we got settled into the albergue.  

On Day 16 - May 16 - Thursday (yesterday) we slept a little later and left at 7 am as we knew it would be a shorter day. We arrived at Castañares at 11:30 after a 9.3 mile walk. It was only the 2nd time on the pilgrimage that I've had to pee outside! I know that's not nice to talk about, but it happens! And I've been lucky. Not a problem for Dave. Not fair. There's usually a cafe or bar along the way when needed, but yesterday was a long way between stops. When we reached Castañares we had to wait an hour for a room so we sat on their patio and had a coke and checked the guidebook while we waited. They brought us a complimentary dish of green olives. That has been customary in many places - many places have their own olive groves. Later we ate lunch at a local place and dinner where we stayed. They serve bread with every meal here and lots of other carbs. Don't know if I'm gaining or losing or maintaining weight - but I know I'm very hungry when we stop!

Today - May 17 - day 17 - Friday we walked the short walk from Castañares to Burgos.  Left about 7:45 after an amazing 6€ breakfast and arrived about 10:00 - about 4.5 miles. We were able to secure a room (shared with 2 others), leave our packs and head for the cathedral. What an amazing and overwhelming place! Indescribable! It was HUGE with gorgeous artwork and altars and stained glass windows. I had such mixed feelings - very beautiful, though. Walked another 3+ miles in the cathedral and Burgos. Visited an ATM for more euros. Bought more ibuprofen, Vaseline, and arnica at a Farmacia - taking care of our bodies. We have rested and are heading out for some dinner now. 
That's all for now from Spain. We continue to keep you and your intentions with us as we walk. 
Much care,
Dave and Kathy
May 22 – Day 22 – Wednesday 
First I need to tell you about the wonderful pilgrim meal we had last night – 9€ each. Castilian Soup, seafood paella, salad, homemade cake, wine, water and bread! Oh yes, and a shot of their homemade coffee liqueur to end the meal. But what was just as nourishing was the company. There were 12 of us at the long table. Paolo from Portugal is doing the Camino backwards. He started walking in northern Portugal, came through Santiago and is continuing on to St. Jean Pied du Port in France. He has MS and is not as symptomatic as most, but is doing a go-fund-me for MS. Inspiring! Everyone has a story but I won't go into them all here. There was a young lady from South Africa who has been working in England, a man from Austria, several from France, a young man from Korea, an older lady from UK, an Italian woman who had been working as a hospitaleria (a volunteer working in an albergue) and is now walking also heading backward to St. Jean, and a tourist couple from Germany who just stumbled into the Camino group and were fascinated by the stories. 

I find that walking alone is meditative and contemplative and so is walking as a couple - lots of shared quiet and shared joys. Then the time with the pilgrim community with one or many is so enriching and broadens my sense of unity and soul. 

Today we left Población de Campos at 6:15 with another dark morning. The birds were all awake, though, and singing so many varied and beautiful songs! Natural tweets are so much nicer than the man made kind! The moon is still out at that time and waning. The sunrise was glorious again. We're always asking each other, "can you believe where we are?!" We chose the optional river route (which adds another kilometer) instead of the path that follows the highway. It was worth it! Shady, quiet (except for the birds' symphony), and scenic. I think we were the only pilgrims that took that route today. 

We got to Carrion de los Condes at about 11:15. I had to go to the bathroom so we stopped at the first place possible - The Santa Clara convent – a Hostal in which St Francis of Assisi allegedly stayed! In order to get in this early we had to get a private room. We had not intended this but it was a good move. Dave's stomach has been upset all morning and by this afternoon mine was, too. Once in the room Dave went to bed, and I walked around the village before returning and going to bed, too. We've both slept all afternoon and will probably be fine for tomorrow's walk. 
Many blessings to all,
Kathy and Dave 
​May 23 – Day 23 – Thursday 
We were up at 4:45 this morning and left Carrión de los Condes at 5:45. We were both feeling a little queasy but off we went. It was a very long day – we walked a little over 15 miles and I think a could feel every step.  I ache all over. Dave's still a bit queasy from time to time. I'm much better. We are cautious about what we eat. We got to Ledigos at about 12:30 after a 15 mile walk. We stopped once at a roadside food truck for a coke and once just to kind of regroup at a town 3 miles before Ledigos. That was the only town, and only option to stop. We carried food and water with us today. Met the 2 Lindas again. It turns out that one of them was very sick last night with stomach stuff and so they took a cab today. I think it's a perfectly viable option especially with lack of services along this stretch. Dave and I both napped after showers, laundry and lunch. Now that we're up again it's about time for bed. While doing foot care after my shower I discovered my first blister! Darn! I was thinking today that the suffering on the trail is eclipsed by the arrival. Like childbirth, we may suffer during labor and birth but that's forgotten when your baby is born. Tomorrow is a 10 mile day – hopefully a little easier. 
Till next time,
Dave and Kathy
May 25 – Day 25 Saturday 
We were up at 5:30 and left Sahagún at 6:30. Arrived at El Burgo Ranero at 11:30 and had to wait for them to open at noon. Lots of peregrinos waiting but fortunately we were at the first of the line. Later others were not so lucky and were turned away as the albergue was "completo" (full). We walked 11.9 miles today per my Fitbit. I put it on when we leave and take it off when we arrive. I think it's pretty accurate. I record all this – time and places and distance - at the end of each walk as it's so easy to forget where we were or where the next place is. 

My blisters have grown. There were actually two small ones on my left heel to begin with and I  hardly noticed at first but took care of them. One has stayed the same but the other has tripled in size.  My left foot has also had a burning ache on the ball of my foot and toes – not the skin burning, but more of a muscle burning ache. My left knee is also very sore and I kinda limped into town today. 

"Are we there yet?" This is a question my brother and I repeatedly asked our parents when on vacation. "No," was the answer. "WHEN will we get there?" Same questions most kids ask their parents. So it's become my Camino question, too, especially when I'm hurting. What time is it? NOW. Where are we? HERE. NOWHERE. Time and space seem to melt away when we're walking – we're in a whole new dimension. The cuckoo bird chimes the Kairos time from her perch on high. 

But we've found ourselves thinking about Kronos time today. This is our 25th straight day of walking. We haven't taken a "zero day" (day off) but we've had a couple "nero" days (near zero – 4.5  miles). I think we are at about the halfway distance point but we are up against the halfway time limit. We fly out of Madrid back home in 25 days. And it'll take at least a day to get to Madrid. I don't think we can push ourselves any harder. Tomorrow is another 12 mile day. One day at a time. 

Thanks for the prayers and encouragement we are receiving from you. It really helps. Hope you all are able to enjoy a long weekend. 
Dave and Kathy 
May 30 – Day 30 – Thursday 

Dear friends and family,
We left Rabanal at 6:15 after arranging to have our packs sent ahead to our next destination. After we were about ½ kilometer up the road Dave realized he still had the keys to our room so he headed back with them. Bless his heart! We finally arrived at Acebo at about 1:30 after walking about 12 hard miles. The road was very rocky with loose stones of varying sizes. It was uphill half the way and downhill the rest. We reached the highest point on the Camino today. We were glad we caved and sent our packs ahead and only carried little day packs.  The highlight of the day was reaching "Cruz de Ferro" the iron cross on a tall wooden pole. 

I'm so sleepy I can't stay awake. I'll have to finish tomorrow. ...
We're no longer on the flat and no longer in the very dry – seems a little like moving from Ritzville into Seattle.  Very rocky paths today. Arrived at Cruz de Ferro and everyone was hushed, and approached with respect and silence. Pilgrims are invited to bring a small stone or object from home to place at the foot of this tall pole with an iron cross at the top.  This signifies releasing your burdens before entering Santiago.  It is also a place to pray for your intentions.  I placed my own object at the foot of the cross but I also brought with me your intentions and left them there. The intentions you entrusted to me as well as your intentions that only God knows about. I prayed for each of you individually and for many whose emails I do not have here. There are so many stones and precious objects here. One is truly walking on holy ground.  It was a very moving experience.  

May 31 – Day 31 – Friday 

We left Acebo at 5:50 this morning and arrived at Camponaraya at 3:00. A very long and very hard and very hot day – 17.5 miles! It was 87 when we finished the day. We were back to carrying our packs again today. We stopped for coffee, juice and toast at Molinaseca after about 3 hours of descending a mountain of loose rocks of various sizes. It seemed to take forever! I thought the US had Rocky Mountains! They pale in comparison to the Spanish version. (Granted, I haven't hiked the Rockies!) Spain is SO rocky! Rocks all over the land – their fields are full of rocks – I don't know how they farm but their crops are gorgeous! And all the old roads are made of stone (we've walked on many ancient Roman roads) and their homes and fences and barns are made of stone. We've recently walked through the historic knights templar region – forerunners to the Masonic order. The Masons got the name honestly in my opinion. They were stone masons!

We stopped in Ponferrada for cokes and it seemed to take forever to get through that large city – and the way wasn't well marked. We finally stopped at a little town called Fuentes Nuevas for a coke, banana and Spanish tortilla. I think we had another 4 miles to go after that. The stop renewed me a bit. Prior to that I was ready to call a cab. Seriously!. I was hot and tired and ached all over.  I was totally spent! But we did it! Dave inspires me – he is patient and caring and wants the best for me. He helps me through the hard times. We arrived at todays destination and  the shower felt incredible. We planned ahead and it looks like we're going to make it to Santiago in plenty of time! Renewed hope! We went out for a pilgrim meal – I had salad and chicken and potatoes and Dave had bean soup and the chicken and potatoes – bottle of wine and bread – strawberries and ice cream for dessert.  Yum! We shared our table with a pilgrim our age from north of Vienna. He started from home on his mountain bike and expects to reach Santiago in a few days! Very interesting conversation. They always are!
It's late and I need to get to sleep. There's always so much that I don't have time to say! 
Much love to all!
Kathy and Dave 
June 3 – Day 34 – Monday 

We left Linares at 6:30 this morning, and after walking 12.5 miles we arrived in Triacastela at noon. It was cooler today and overcast. We did have a series of PUDs (pointless ups and downs) but other than that it was a good day. We crossed into the region of Galicia and it seems like the Way is a little smoother. We have less than 100 miles to go to get to Santiago (thanks to Richardsons for the reminder!) and we are hopeful!

We passed by more stunning views today and some enormous trees. Zeke, you would love these trees! Dave voiced one regret today (and I feel it, too). Walking through a tiny village there was an old lady standing by the road (near her door) offering homemade tortillas to pilgrims. We had just eaten so we passed by with a simple "gracias." But we both wish we had accepted her beautiful hospitality. We were already a block away when we realized our rudeness. 

Tomorrow we go through Sarria. It is the starting place for many pilgrims who don't have the time to do the whole pilgrimage. It's 100 km or 62 miles, I think, to Santiago. That's the least distance you can walk to have it "count" as an official Camino de Santiago and receive a "compostela" – the certificate of completion. So a LOT of pilgrims start there which means the Way will likely be more crowded. It'll be interesting to see the difference. 

Galicia has a climate a lot like Seattle so we're seeing a lot of lush greenery and ferns. I even saw a Seattle-sized slug today! Tomorrow we expect some rain. But we are still seeing the most beautiful stone buildings and we actually saw a whole team of stone masons working on a wall today. Their craftsmanship is amazing. 

Much love to all!
Dave and Kathy 
June 6 – Day 37 – Thursday 
Left Portomarín at 6:40 and arrived at Portos at noon. We were surprised when we came around the corner and there was our albergue! Just as it was starting to rain again. 13 miles today. Cold and windy and threatening rain all day, but we only had a sprinkle or two.  Maybe that’s why we made better time. Big uphill after Portomarín and several PUDs (pointless ups and downs) but even as I was thinking that, I realized that’s life.  We may think the ups and downs are pointless but maybe they have a purpose.  Sometimes a purpose we never get to know. Whatever the purpose or non-purpose, they get us where we’re going. Ran into Phil and Shelly (from N or S Carolina) and Aurora (from Lithuania now living in Valencia). We originally met them all in San Martin the end of May. Also crossed paths with the couple from Quebec and the man from Australia with whom we’ve been playing leapfrog. 

While waiting for the albergue to be ready today we ate pesto pasta! Yum! It’s only 2:30 and we’re settled into our room – shared with three other people but NOT bunk beds! Yay! And it’s pouring rain outside with a very strong headwind for the poor pilgrims still walking. It’s cold in here but we’re wrapped up like burritos in our sleeping bags. 

If any of you are interested in seeing more of the Camino, we strongly recommend Efren’s journey.  He is an American of Cuban descent and documented his Camino on YouTube, I think a year ago. Each day of his pilgrimage is edited down to about 10 minutes. He also has a drone so you can see overhead views that most pilgrims don’t even get to see. Just search for “Efren Camino” on YouTube. We’ll watch it again sometime when we get home. 

That’s all for now. Don’t know if this will go out or not. No cell service and their WiFi doesn’t seem to be reliable. 
Much love,
Kathy and Dave ​​
June 8 – Day 39 – Saturday 

Out the door this morning at 6:30 and finally arrived at our albergue in Salceda at 2:00 after wandering awhile. “All who wander are not lost,” says Tolkien. Dave says, “we were a might bewildered for a bit, though”. We logged 17 ½ miles from door to door today. It was cold getting started today but NO RAIN! Very misty morning with the sun breaking through later but still quite cool. It was a great day for walking. We continue seeing lots of eucalyptus forests along the path and the fragrance is wonderful. Different wildflowers now. I’m not seeing any more poppies but the wild roses are still lining our trails. We see wild foxgloves everywhere. 

We had a most congenial host and so we ate dinner here. He recommended the scallops. The scallop shell is the central symbol of the Camino. The name Coquilles St. Jacques (French) comes from legends of St. James (Santiago in Spanish). It seemed fitting to have the dish while on the Camino. 

Mark, you asked, “both glad and sad?” You are right on. We have such mixed feelings. We’re excited to get to Santiago but sad to see the pilgrimage end. We look forward to not getting up and walking every day but then, we’ll miss that, too. I think the return is as significant as the pilgrimage. 

We’re arriving sooner than we expected. After a couple days in Santiago we will go to Finisterre (the end of the earth) most likely by bus – then possibly to Muxia. They are both on the Atlantic and significant pilgrim sites – especially for the Celtic pilgrimages that predate the St James pilgrimage along the same route. This region we’re in now has a very Celtic heritage- they were playing Celtic music in our restaurant tonight. And there are lots of Celtic knot designs around. 

Tomorrow we head to Lavacolla which will put us about 6 miles to Santiago on Monday. Tomorrow is our 40th day. I think that’s symbolic, too. Many people try to finish the pilgrimage in 33 days – the years that Jesus lived. I think 40 is significant, too, as a number signifying trial or waiting. Jesus’ 40 days in the desert, Moses’ 40 years in the desert, 40 days of lent, 40 weeks of gestation.  I wonder what will be revealed, birthed in us.  We’ll see.

Sleep well, friends. I’m sure we will tonight. 
Kathy and Dave 

​June 10 – Day 41 – Monday

I sent the previous message today from my phone and couldn't get it to send pictures. I'll try to include some pictures at the end of this email. We slept late today and left Lavacolla at 7:00. We are not setting an alarm for tomorrow! We arrived here at the cathedral at about 10:30. I think it was about 6 miles. A lot of it was big city! By the time we got to the pilgrim office and then the hotel, the Fitbit registered 8 miles. 

We were back and forth about timing for this pilgrimage - first not giving ourselves enough time, and now finishing a little early. We are scheduled to get home next Wednesday, the 19th, late evening. We'll stay tonight and tomorrow night in Santiago, then take a bus to Finesterre for 2 nights. After that we are not sure. Now we're tourists! We plan to go to the cabin after we get home for a bit to debrief and decompress. A day at a time for now. 

As I was reading today I found this quote! How perfect! 

"What nine months of attention does to an embryo, forty early mornings will do to your gradually growing wholeness" Rumi  (from The Illuminated Rumi)

Just because we have arrived in Santiago does not mean the pilgrimage is finished. It's not a destination thing. I think now it really begins. A lot to reflect upon. 

Thank you for coming with us on this journey. I really didn't intend to do this email blog, but I kept thinking of so many of you and wanted to share it. We both feel such gratitude for having the opportunity to make this pilgrimage. It hasn't registered yet. We will give it time. Hope to see you all soon. 
Dave and Kathy 

Your gift of 10 cents a mile or $50 transports refugees for the Refugees’ Harvest Project

Provides opportunities for refugees to pick fruits and vegetables to contribute to the health of low income and refugee communities.

Your gift of 20 cents a mile or $100 aids Cross-Cultural Navigators in the Refugee Elder Outreach Program 

Engages Refugee and Immigrant seniors in ESL classes, civic and cultural field trips, Citizenship classes, Music as a First Language, workshops on elder services and community events. 
​May 18 - Day 18 - Saturday 
I felt more like a tourist today at breakfast.  We had each pre-paid 6€ for breakfast and there wasn't a clean table or silverware and there was no coffee. And nobody to ask. Finally found the person to ask and she was put out when we asked for a fork and really got the stink-eye when we asked for coffee.  I have to remember that I am a pilgrim and should be grateful and not let someone else's attitude color mine. 

We left late today - about 9:15 but didn't get out of Burgos till 10:00 - long walk through a big city. It's been cold in the mornings- mid to upper 30s. We bought gloves a few days ago and that helps. Plenty warm by the end of the walk though. 

We were stopped just outside of Burgos by a local man and his little boy who were riding bikes. The little boy, Yago, was about 9 or 10. He wanted to "interview" us while his dad recorded it on his phone. His English was very good. He wanted to know why we decided to walk the Camino and where we were from. Did we like Burgos, and did we like the food there, and what were our favorite foods in Spain, and what our names were. He was so cute!

It was another short, easy walk today. About 7.5 miles. We got to Tardajos at 11:30 and checked into a private room with a shared bath. We ate a pilgrim meal this afternoon - 10€ each and enough food for a week! First course for me was pasta with tomato sauce, chorizo and cheese. Dave's was Cuban rice - with tomato sauce and 2 eggs. Second course was chicken breast for me and pork loin for Dave. The meal came with a whole basket of bread and a bottle of wine and a liter bottle of water. Dessert was ice cream drizzled with chocolate sauce. We ate most everything! Stopped at a market for food for tomorrow. Often hard to find anything open on Sunday. We came back to the room, napped and watched Disney's "White Fang" on TV in Spanish!

Keeping you all in our thoughts as we walk.  Tomorrow to Hontanas -  entering the flat Meseta.  
Much love,
Dave and Kathy ​
May 21 - Day 21 Tuesday 
I've got some catching up to do!

Sunday May 19 - Day 19
Up at 5:00 this morning and left Tardajos at 6. Cold! Beautiful moon we followed west till it set and the sun rose. We forgot it was Sunday and had hoped for coffee along the way, but nothing was open as is often the case on Sunday in Spain. We ate cheese and bread and banana and peanuts at a little bench on the road.  We arrived at Hontanas at noon. After a shower and laundry we ate the BEST homemade hamburger, fries, beer and ice cream! We ran into the 2 Lindas again staying at our same albergue. We had a delicious pilgrim meal with them, a lady from Denmark, and Terrance, a pediatrician from Seattle. Had a glass of wine with him after dinner. We booked a room ahead for Monday. I don't like the idea of that but sometimes seems like a necessity because we are so slow.  The 2 Lindas had to take a cab to the next town recently because there were no beds available and they couldn't walk any further- they are our age!

Monday - May 20 - Day 20
Left Hontanas a little after 6 am. Cold (37F) and dark! Used the headlamps again for a bit. But there was a gorgeous full moon lighting the way! We stopped at a little albergue along the way just before 8 am - didn't look too open but needed a bathroom. As we approached around the back, the door was closed but a young woman came out. We thought she was going to tell us they wouldn't open till noon. But she called to us, "Come in and get warm and have breakfast with us!" It was the ruins of the 14th century Convent of San Anton. No electricity! (But running water) Hot coffee and hot milk on a gas stove, bread and marmalade and fruit by candle light with pilgrims who had stayed the night there! All by donation. They said it was cold but the stone walls had held the heat from the day before. They also had a wood stove. Charming and welcoming- wish we had stayed there!  Continued on through many ups and downs. Saw a handwritten sign that said "Whoever said the Meseta was flat?!"  Climbed a VERY long VERY steep hill - 12% incline just to reach the top and descend an 18% decline!! The views at the top were spectacular! We felt like we were walking through the Palouse much of the day with rolling fields of wheat. Arrived at Itero de la Vega about 12:30 after a 14.2 mile walk. After a shower we did our bit of laundry by hand as we always do. The wash water was brown and so was the rinse water! But it was all cleaner than before we washed it! While doing the wash we visited with Gonzales, who decided to walk The Camino from his home - walked out his door in Burgos and kept on walking. He doesn't  know if he'll go clear to Santiago. We walked to a market to get a couple things for breakfast and ran into the 2 Lindas again at a different albergue. Had a beer and snacks with them and an Italian woman and 2 Californians. 

Today! May 21 - Day 21 - Tuesday 
We left Itero de la Vega at 6:30 - warmer today - 45 - and kept looking back at a beautiful sunrise of many colors. It finally was flatter today. A clear sky. Glad we are walking early because there isn't much shade and the sun can be quite hot. Saw a lot of storks nesting high on church steeples and towers. They are really big birds! Met Jorge from Mexico City and walked with him much of the day. We stopped a couple times for food and drink.  We were warmly greeted at Hotel Amanecer at Población de Campos at 12:30 with glasses of fresh squeezed orange juice after walking 12 miles. We showered and did all our laundry in a real washing machine with real soap for 3€!! Hung the clothes on the line and they dried really fast while we had drinks and snacks in their beautiful garden.  
Much love to all!
Kathy and Dave

​
May 24 – Day 24 – Friday 
We slept late today! Yesterday was really hard for us both. So we didn't leave Ledigos until almost 8:00. So it was already light out – didn't get to see the sunrise today. By the way, the sun doesn't rise until almost 7:00 and doesn't set until after 9:00! It's always light when we head for bed. It's warmer now. Low to mid 40s in the morning and high 60s in the afternoons. That's why we try to get out early if possible. Today the way was fairly flat and we had a bit of cloud cover. We arrived at the albergue in Sahagun at about 12:30 after making a couple leisurely stops along the way. It took at least 45 minutes to get us checked in – lots of people in line. We are at the Monasterio de Santa Cruz, a Benedictine monastery that is just lovely. There is a happy hour with tea and coffee and juice starting now at 5:00 and mass at 6:30 and communal dinner at 8:00. They provide the main dish and pilgrims are asked to bring something to add. We stopped at a supermercado and got fruit and cheese and wine to bring. We also found an ATM and got more euros.  Dave's stomach is still a bit touchy so I made him the equivalent of Lipton instant chicken soup. We'll play it by ear for dinner. (I'll finish this later.)

The 5:00 "Happy hour" was actually a wonderful group discussion about why we were here and doing the Camino. Dave napped during this time. People were very open and honest and vulnerable.  It was beautiful. Mass was at 6:30 with a pilgrim blessing at the end.  I was one of 3 English speaking people there so was asked to read the first reading. The rest of the mass was in Spanish, but Shonna, we sang Taize songs! We were all given a pilgrim blessing at the end by the Marist priests and the Benedictine sisters. After mass I found out that we were to have brought our dinner food donations to the kitchen earlier so I brought our stuff down and one of the Lindas and I helped prepare all the donated food. It was a banquet! Dave was able to join in. The communal aspect was amazing! It has been a blessed day. 

Sahagun is the halfway point for pilgrims who start in St Jean. So we're almost to our halfway point. A little concerned about the time. We're at our halfway time point now too. A day at a time. 
I'm getting tired and it's getting dark – time for sleep!
Until tomorrow,
Kathy and Dave
May 27 – Day 27 – Monday – Memorial Day 
On Sunday we left El Burgo Ranero at 6:30 and arrived at Mansilla de las Mulas at 11:30 – 12 miles. Dave's stomach is better and so is mine, my blister is worse. My leg and foot pain is better but my knee was pretty swollen. Pretty worn out and worn down. We've heard along the way that many have had the stomach flu to one degree or another. 

We decided to take a zero day, take a break, take a bus, and empty our egos today and bypass León. It feels a little like failure and a little disappointing but we realize it's not supposed to be an ego trip but a pilgrimage. The guidebook even hints at bypassing León. It is miles of trail that parallels the busy highway and travels through suburbs, industrial areas, car dealerships, lots of stores and distractions (including McDonald's, Burger King and KFC). After seeing it by bus we do not regret our decision. I guess I wanted to do it perfectly, walking every step. But that was an outer intention. My inner intention was, and still is, to listen and to follow the invitation I received from Mystery. And maybe to learn more about myself, others and the world. I see that if I judge myself I am also judging others. Given our physical and time constraints I think we made the right choice. 

We are now in San Martin del Camino. We plan to walk to San Justo de la Vega tomorrow. About 12 miles. 

Remembering all those we love,
Kathy and Dave
June 1 – Day 32 – Saturday 
We left Camponaraya at 6:15 and arrived at Trabadello at 2:30. We walked 16 miles (including getting a little turned around in Villafranca)! The road was not as hard as yesterday but it was pretty warm. It was 83 when we arrived.  We slathered on the sunscreen. It must have worked – I see no tan or burn lines. We also stopped several times to eat or drink or just rest. 

We had a lovely pilgrim meal tonight with Jasmine from Switzerland and Claudia from Argentina. Wonderful honest and deep conversations.

I'm going to try to send pictures of yesterday's rocky roads and fields. Amazing how they can work the fields around all these rocks!

We are so lucky to be here and experience all this.  Each day we have to pinch ourselves to realize where we are and what we're doing. Tomorrow morning we leave to climb O Cebreiro- it's not the highest peak but we start at a fairly low elevation so it's a long climb. 
So good night for now!
Dave and Kathy
June 2 – Day 33 – Sunday
We left Trabadello at 6 am and arrived at Linares at 1:30 after making it through the beautiful mountaintop town of O Cebreiro - wow what an incredible view! We knew it would be a strenuous climb today so we sent our heavy backpacks ahead and only carried day packs. They were at our albergue when we arrived. We walked 15 miles today. 

After the first 3 hours this morning of a pretty smooth path with a gradual incline...you guessed it! rocks! And a very steep incline! With the steep incline and rocks and increasing elevation, we found it harder to breathe. I thought of the "Little Engine That Could " – I think I can, I think I can...and lo and behold! We did it! The view was so worth it!

I realized how grateful I am for my feet. They are amazing to carry us so far – all those muscles and tendons and bones and even skin – working so hard. They take a licking and keep on trekking. Bless them! We are fearfully and wonderfully made. I am grateful!

Horses! I have seen evidence of them for miles – hundreds of miles by now. There are three official ways to complete the Camino: on foot, by bicycle, or on horseback. We finally saw horses today! I felt pretty sorry for them, too.  Hard enough to make that steep rocky climb, but carrying a human on your back would be even harder. 

Oh yes! And cows! They were walking through the streets in two separate small villages we stopped in. 

Tonight we're in a room of four beds – the other two people just arrived and are unpacking and getting settled. It's getting close to our bedtime. It's about 8:30. The sun doesn't set until 10:00! Makes it hard to realize it's time to sleep. But morning for us comes early. 
So – off to bed! Peace to you all!
Kathy and Dave
​June 5 – Day 36 – Wednesday 
Left Rente at 7:30 this morning. Slept late and wanted to sleep even later. We were kind of sore and aching after yesterday's long walk. But miles to go before we sleep again. Pretty easy 12 miles today...except for rain again. Mist, then sprinkle, shower, drizzle and drench! Happened twice with sunshine eventually in between. The first time we just put our ponchos on. But the rain soaked through my pants (that are semi waterproof) and water ran down the insides down my shins and into my socks! I didn't like it much. Everything dried pretty quickly once the sun came out. Then it started again and this time I added my rain pants. Stopped at a charming vegetarian bar (here bar is synonymous with café) and had delicious veggie pizza and a smoothie. We arrived at Portomarin at 1:30. We have a private room with a private bath AND a TUB with a plug! I had a great soak (used complementary shampoo for bubble bath) while Dave watched an old western on Spanish TV! We reached the 100 km marker today! Now less than 100 km till Santiago.  We are actually doing this!
The best to all of you!
Dave and Kathy 
​June 4 – day 35 – Tuesday 
I am so bummed.I had this whole thing written and fell asleep and lost it! Darn it! So briefly- we left Triacastela at 6:30 and inadvertently took the optional route to Sarria which added hours and miles to the day.  Arrived in Rente at 3:30 – 9 hours and 20.5 miles. Saw Samos Benedictine monastery- no time to tour but it was magnificent from the outside. Got my Spanish SIM card for my phone recharged in Sarria so I'm good to go for the rest of the time. Rained like crazy today – Seattle weather! Glad to have rain gear. More amazing trees in an enchanted forest and a beautiful place to stay tonight- a 300 year old building on a working farm. Chickens and sheep in the yard. Wonderful meal. Downpour before bed and topped off with a rainbow! Really a great day in spite of everything. Gotta get to sleep before I lose this too!
​June 7 – Day 38 – Friday

Sylvia, our roommate from last night, shared that her friend stayed in my bed the night before last night and ended up with bedbugs yesterday! Nice of her to share...but I don't itch today- thank heavens. The room smelled like strong disinfectant when we arrived yesterday. And we sprayed our packs and sleeping bags with permethrin before we came so I think we're safe. Hope so. Also in our albergue were several adults who appeared developmentally delayed. Bless their pilgrimage and those who guide them. 

We arrived in Melide at about 2:00 after leaving Portos at 7:00. We logged 14.5 miles, but some of that was trying to find our albergue. Melide is a town (fairly large) that funnels in two other Camino routes into this one - the Norte and the Primativo. So in addition to those who began in Sarria, we have even more pilgrims joining our ranks. 

We ran into a few friends along the way – Jasmina from Switzerland and Stefan from Portland, OR. We met new people from Taiwan and Toronto and folks from Denmark at dinner. We had Carbonara! I've got to quit eating like this!

It was cold today and rained off and on with occasional sunshine, downpours, and even hail! But we managed to stay fairly dry. We walked through a couple of eucalyptus groves that smelled wonderful. We bought more ibuprofen at the farmacia and have come home to sleep. 

We just heard from our friends, George and Rita, that they arrived in Santiago today from their Portuguese Camino! Yay! What an accomplishment! We'll see them in Spokane later. 

We hope to be in Santiago on Monday!
Much love to you all!
Dave and Kathy 
June 10 – Dat 40 – Sunday – Pentecost
When we left our room this morning we bought a couple muffins from our host. He was so sweet – always adding a little extra to anything we ordered – he gave us a bag of chips and a package of nuts when we ordered drinks before dinner last night.  This morning he threw in a bag of candy for the trail. When I asked for a picture he left for a moment and put on a hat and got his huge walking staff (calling it his selfie stick). 

We arrived in Lavacolla at 11:30 today after leaving Salceda at 7:00. We only walked 11 miles today.  We didn’t want to walk into Santiago completely worn out. So tomorrow I think we only have about 6 miles to go to enter the city.  I don’t know how far it is into Santiago before we find the cathedral.  

So far my Fitbit has recorded 492.64 miles that I’ve walked since starting on May 1st. I put the Fitbit on when I leave the room and take it off when I arrive at the next place. So it does record meal and bathroom breaks as well as wandering around looking for our night’s lodging. 

It was a pretty easy day walking along beautiful forest paths. More eucalyptus groves and corn fields.  Nice weather, clear skies. At one point we were surprised by a very loud sound and realized it was not the highway on the other side of the forest, but a commercial jet taking off from the Lavacolla International Airport! The huge plane took off just over the treetops above us! When we’re on the trail we are often unaware that 21st century activity is still happening around us. I was so startled I didn’t get a photo, but later when we were in a clearing spot, I got a picture of another plane taxiing nearby. 

Thanks to Richardsons mention of the many languages spoken at once on Pentecost! Yes! All around us! And all working to understand and help one another! A true Pentecost day!

On to tomorrow! Cue the “Rocky” theme…
Excited and a little sad,
Dave and Kathy ​
Final Day:  We’re here! Got to cathedral at about 10:30 am. Laughed and cried and ran into friends we’ve walked with on the way. Tried the Compostela office that had a 2 hour line of people waiting for their Compostela, and decided to check into the hotel and get rid of backpacks and trekking poles. Then had some lunch. I’m standing in line again at the Compostela office - I think it’s always a 2 hour line. Mixed feelings but so relieved that we did it! And that we’ve DONE it! Thanks to all of you who have prayed and encouraged and supported us!
Much love!
Kathy and Dave ​

Your gift of  $1.00 per mile or $500 helps us launch Refugee Stories: Voices of Hope

Highlights the gifts of refugees and immigrants in our Spokane area through storytelling, whether in writing, audio or video formats, to publish on our website, Facebook and social media platforms.

Your gift of $5.00 a mile or $2500 mentors youth through Refugee Kids Connect

Promotes leadership, engages with the community, builds confidence, assists with education and English, and creates a safe space for youth to integrate into a new culture while also preserving and embracing cultural traditions. 
We will post updates as Kathy walks in solidarity with the world! Please note as a memo or e-mail us at rcs@refugeeconnectionsspokane.org to let us know your contribution is for the Camino Pilgrimage Fundraiser. Please send checks to: Refugee Connections Spokane, 35 W. Main Ave. Ste 205, Spokane, WA 99201.